Flat Felled Seam with Trim {Tutorial}

Last night I showed you Kadences Trendsetting Hounds-Tooth Shorts and today I'm going to show you how I made that really cool flat felled seam with a trim insertion.

 

A few things of note:

This is basically a modified Flat Felled seam, and you can use this technique on any relatively straight seam.

You can really apply anything as your trim - fabric, piping, rick rack, ribbon - what ever!

I used 5/8 seam allowance (for kids shorts) you may want to increase your seam allowances.

Flat Felled seams should be pressed towards the back when used in side seams. 

Lets get started!

 Begin by stitching your fabric WRONG sides together.

In the pictures below, the front of my garment is on the right side of the photographs, while the back of the garment is on the left.

Press your seams open.

Working on the seam allowance that is on the front half  (of the garment) press it in half, meeting the raw edge to the stitching.

Working on the opposite seam allowance (the back half  of the garment) trim away about 1/8" away from the stitching line.

You can see here the seam allowance has been cut away.

Press the folded seam allowance over the raw edge and towards the back of the garment.

(if you are not using any trim, skip ahead to the stitching step!)

Insert trim between the garment fabric and the folded and pressed seam allowance, placing raw edge of trim against stitching.

How wide your trim is will affect how much shows when the seam is complete. (Here I used 11/4" wide satin strips folded in half.)

I use my trusty washable glue stick to hold everything in place so my trim doesn't shift when I stitch it all down.

Press your seam allowance back in place towards the back, over your trim. 

You can see your original stitching line on the front-side of the garment

Edge stitch along the folded edge of your seam allowance.

Not only does it look off the rack on the outside, the Flat Felled seam creates a lovely and clean finish to the inside of the garment as well!

There are so many ways you can use this technique - pants, skirts  handbags! And let's not forget the little guys, this is an excellent detail to add to boys clothes to subtly (or not!) embellish with a pop of color or texture.

Tell us! What kind seam finishing techniques do you like to use?

Trendsetting Hounds-tooth Shorts aka McCalls 6391 {Made!}

My daughter Kadence definitely has her own sense of style. 

She's a funky girl, with the confidence to wear what she likes, and she sometimes sets the trend.

I try to tell her imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but to a 6th grader trying to be unique it can get frustrating.

Sometimes a girl needs something original, and between her taste and my stitching skills these shorts are just what the doctor ordered!

We started with McCalls 6391, view D

Here's how we got the look:

I used a black and white twill hounds-tooth print for the shorts and lime green satin for the trim - both found at Hancock Fabrics this summer.

Lime green buttons also from Hancocks.

She requested a few design changes, including omitting the font pleat for a flat front finish.

I also cut several inches off the hem and left off the cuff. 

I trimmed out the pockets and flap using some lime satin, and although it looks like I went to the trouble to pipe them, all I really did was line them with the satin, and then rolled the facing out just a tad before stitching.

I used a flat fell seam to finish the sides, and inserted some more lime trim here.

Wonderfully easy technique to up the cool factor - check out my tutorial  for the How to's!

{click here}

I also used a double row of top-stitching on everything - hem, fly, pockets, waistband... The pattern only calls for traditional edge stitching, but  I think top-stitched this way it has a more RTW feel.

And lastly, a lime green zipper. No one but Kadence will see it - but it's way more fun than if we had just gone with plain ol' black or white.

 I will be making up this pattern again. (you can see my review at PatternReview.com here)

For the record, I did tissue fit these before I started, but I will make a few changes next go 'round.

I will raise the crotch a bit more, and the waistband gaps in the back.

I am wondering if the gaping is because this pattern is cut for a girl, but Kadence is starting to get curvy between her hips and waist??

I don't know - except to say I've never had to alter patterns for her until now!

 Any hoo, She loves them, because t hey look "store bought" (which for her is a must) but no one else will ever have a pair like them. And that's exactly what a reluctant trendsetter needs.

Tell us! Why do you sew for the kiddos?

Embellish with Perfect Rick Rack Every Time!

I love to add details to my projects, whether I'm making children's clothing or a purse! And one of my favorite ways is to use rick rack, especially inset in a seam or hem. 

I get a lot of compliments on how perfect and even my rick rack always looks, I have a super easy-peasy method and I'm going to share my secret with you today.

lets take your skills up a notch,

and go from bad placement...

...to perfect placement!

 Lets get started!

Perfect Rick Rack

You will need:

Elmer's washable glue stick. (the purple kind)

 Start off by stitching directly on the seam line of your fabric

Now, run your glue stick directly over your stitching line, you can be generous (it's water soluble!)

Place your rick rack directly over the glue/seam line. Make sure it is securely in place

If you want to see more rick rack, then line up the edge with your stitching line as shown in the picture

Alternative: If you want to see just the tips of the rick rack peeking through the seam, then line up the edge as shown in this picture

Slightly ease in fullness around curves if you are placing rick rack in a curved seam, like a collar or yoke

Place your fabrics Right Sides Together, and then stitch directly on top of your original sewing line

Open seam and press, top-stitch if desired

I like to see the full zig and zag of rick rack, so this look is my favorite

If you choose the alternative placement this is how it will look when you are done

You're done! Isn't it lovely?

It's a couple extra steps this way, but you save time by not having to re-sew any mistakes!

Give this method a try and let me know what you think!

Tell us! Do you like to use Rick Rack? 

And do you ever use glue sticks for basting?

Simple French Seam Tutorial

Why french seams you ask? Don't you have a serger?

Why yes, I do have a serger - And yes, it works and yes I can thread it.

But certain times I just prefer to use a French seam to finish my seams.

For example:

• I like to use a French seams where a hem may be visible - like on the ruffled neckline and sleeves of a peasant top.
• When I use a narrow hem, and I hem all my pieces before construction. (If I used serging construction then the serged seam allowance would go all the way to the edge and would really be visible & ugly. )
• For something heirloom quality
• If I want to make a tiny baby garment - less irritating on delicate skin
• When I want the inside of a garment to be as pretty as the outside. 
• With thin, delicate fabrics where you wouldn't want raveling to occur
• On sheer fabrics where you could see the finished edge through the fabric.

I use French seams to completely construct a peasant top, no serging at all. It might take me a little bit longer than if I constructed the garment using a serger but I feel that the end product is worth the investment in time, both for the quality and the beauty of it. 

French seams can be seem intimidating if you haven't tried them before because sewing them goes against everything you know -  what? wrong sides together, huh?...  but once you sew one you'll be amazed at how simple it is. To help you along there is a tutorial I've made and posted below.  So give it a try, and feel fancy!

Somethings to know before you begin:

Sewing French seams can require a tiny bit of math to make sure your final seam allowance is correct.

 In the examples below I have a total seam allowance of 1/2 inch, so my first stitching line is 1/4 inch and my second is also 1/4 for a total of 1/2 inch seam allowance.

If I were using a pattern with a 5/8 inch seam allowance I would place my first stitching line at 3/8 and the second at 1/4 for a total of 5/8 inch seam allowance.

below I am using a straight stitch foot, a 1/4 quilting foot works great for French seaming too.

Step 1. Place fabrics WRONG sides together and sew using a 1/4 seam allowance

Step 2. Trim seam allowance to about 1/8 inch, careful not to trim too close to stitching

Step 3. Press the seam to set the stitches

Step 4. Open fabric and fold RIGHT sides together at the seam (your raw edge is now inside your fold) Press.

Step 5. Sew another seam, using a 1/4 seam allowance along the folded edge.

 (this seam encases the raw edges you sewed earlier)

Step 6. After pressing the seam to set the stitches

press your fabrics open

Step 7. Press the French seam to one side (usually the back)

and you are done with this seam!

See how nice it looks in a finished garment?

can you even see it? look close!

Ta Da! No raw seams!

Tutorial Originally posted 2/21/10 by Cherry Bubbins