Flat Felled Seam with Trim {Tutorial}

Last night I showed you Kadences Trendsetting Hounds-Tooth Shorts and today I'm going to show you how I made that really cool flat felled seam with a trim insertion.

 

A few things of note:

This is basically a modified Flat Felled seam, and you can use this technique on any relatively straight seam.

You can really apply anything as your trim - fabric, piping, rick rack, ribbon - what ever!

I used 5/8 seam allowance (for kids shorts) you may want to increase your seam allowances.

Flat Felled seams should be pressed towards the back when used in side seams. 

Lets get started!

 Begin by stitching your fabric WRONG sides together.

In the pictures below, the front of my garment is on the right side of the photographs, while the back of the garment is on the left.

Press your seams open.

Working on the seam allowance that is on the front half  (of the garment) press it in half, meeting the raw edge to the stitching.

Working on the opposite seam allowance (the back half  of the garment) trim away about 1/8" away from the stitching line.

You can see here the seam allowance has been cut away.

Press the folded seam allowance over the raw edge and towards the back of the garment.

(if you are not using any trim, skip ahead to the stitching step!)

Insert trim between the garment fabric and the folded and pressed seam allowance, placing raw edge of trim against stitching.

How wide your trim is will affect how much shows when the seam is complete. (Here I used 11/4" wide satin strips folded in half.)

I use my trusty washable glue stick to hold everything in place so my trim doesn't shift when I stitch it all down.

Press your seam allowance back in place towards the back, over your trim. 

You can see your original stitching line on the front-side of the garment

Edge stitch along the folded edge of your seam allowance.

Not only does it look off the rack on the outside, the Flat Felled seam creates a lovely and clean finish to the inside of the garment as well!

There are so many ways you can use this technique - pants, skirts  handbags! And let's not forget the little guys, this is an excellent detail to add to boys clothes to subtly (or not!) embellish with a pop of color or texture.

Tell us! What kind seam finishing techniques do you like to use?

Trendsetting Hounds-tooth Shorts aka McCalls 6391 {Made!}

My daughter Kadence definitely has her own sense of style. 

She's a funky girl, with the confidence to wear what she likes, and she sometimes sets the trend.

I try to tell her imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but to a 6th grader trying to be unique it can get frustrating.

Sometimes a girl needs something original, and between her taste and my stitching skills these shorts are just what the doctor ordered!

We started with McCalls 6391, view D

Here's how we got the look:

I used a black and white twill hounds-tooth print for the shorts and lime green satin for the trim - both found at Hancock Fabrics this summer.

Lime green buttons also from Hancocks.

She requested a few design changes, including omitting the font pleat for a flat front finish.

I also cut several inches off the hem and left off the cuff. 

I trimmed out the pockets and flap using some lime satin, and although it looks like I went to the trouble to pipe them, all I really did was line them with the satin, and then rolled the facing out just a tad before stitching.

I used a flat fell seam to finish the sides, and inserted some more lime trim here.

Wonderfully easy technique to up the cool factor - check out my tutorial  for the How to's!

{click here}

I also used a double row of top-stitching on everything - hem, fly, pockets, waistband... The pattern only calls for traditional edge stitching, but  I think top-stitched this way it has a more RTW feel.

And lastly, a lime green zipper. No one but Kadence will see it - but it's way more fun than if we had just gone with plain ol' black or white.

 I will be making up this pattern again. (you can see my review at PatternReview.com here)

For the record, I did tissue fit these before I started, but I will make a few changes next go 'round.

I will raise the crotch a bit more, and the waistband gaps in the back.

I am wondering if the gaping is because this pattern is cut for a girl, but Kadence is starting to get curvy between her hips and waist??

I don't know - except to say I've never had to alter patterns for her until now!

 Any hoo, She loves them, because t hey look "store bought" (which for her is a must) but no one else will ever have a pair like them. And that's exactly what a reluctant trendsetter needs.

Tell us! Why do you sew for the kiddos?

Retreat at My Girlfriends Quilt Shoppe - Ahhhmazing!

Last month the Ogden NG and some of our favorite members from down south got together for a retreat in Logan, held at the “Attic” in My Girlfriends Quilt Shoppe. 

Some girls came early, some came late, some stayed all day - all had a blast sewing, shopping, eating and just hanging out. The Attic retreat center and adjacent store really are a wonderful place to spend a Saturday, both are full of amazing displays and inspiration and the creative atmosphere is undeniable! 

The shop owners Kris and Mike were gracious hosts providing everything from drinks to personal ironing boards and waste baskets. Kris treated us with a fun make & take project so everyone went home with a charming pincushion, and armed with the knowledge to make more!

You can check out this video on their blog for the full tutorial.

In addition to a whopping discount in the quilt shop each attendee received a sweet little tote bag to carry all that new fabric home. 

I'm sorry I don't have any pictures of happy girls sewing and hanging out, I got so caught up in having a good time I didn't even break my camera out the whole day!

I guess you'll just have to believe me when I say everyone agreed the retreat was worth the drive, and we can’t wait to come back next spring! 

Tell us! What have you done for fun this summer?

We're Back, with a Blog Makeover to Boot!

After taking a summer Blogging Break in July we are ready to get back into the thick of things!

And what better way to kick things back into gear than with a fresh look for the blog?

Beth at Plum & June was hosting a giveaway, and I won a blog makeover. Yay!

Jennie at click. snap. swoosh. laugh helped me tweak things for a look that's cleaner, happier, and well - just more us. What do you think?

I've been busy with summer plans, traveling and kid stuff - but I've managed to keep steadily creating too! 

Here's a peek into some of my July projects:

At our retreat at My Girlfriends Quilt Shoppe  I worked on a sweet little dress for my niece

Kadence and I collaborated on these shorts with a fun trim detail -

Tutorial coming on Monday!

I finally used my Ruffling Foot - Love! Love! Love!

and even did some sewing for myself!

Join us next week and  I'll recap some of  our recent chapter events (fun!), post a tutorial (fun!) and share some more (fun!) stuff!

It's been a wonderful summer, I can't believe it's nearly over!

Tell us! Do you make time to create during the summer, or just enjoy the break?